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1985SupraMan
04-09-2007, 07:35 PM
mah car is stuck.....when i park it wit the engine off...the clutch goes into gear....but when the engine is on...the car wont go into gear....and if i start up the car with it in first gear- it jumps on me like i dont haf mah foot on the clutch... so i guess u can say that mah clutch isnt workin...hahah...wont go into gear....any help i can get?....:sadsmilie

scorpmatt
04-09-2007, 07:38 PM
sounds like the throwout bearing is shot....

at least to me. hope someone else chimes in. :)

1985SupraMan
04-09-2007, 07:52 PM
hey...how much is the throwout bearing?....want one rite away....need it to run my time for the spring....hurry hurry....gotta go burn some of my friends civics on the strip...hahaha

villerat
04-09-2007, 08:00 PM
you my need to bleed your clutch line and chech the reservoir frequenty.
here is the link http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/manual.aspx?Section=CL&Page=3 if that doesn't work you may need to get a new clutch cylinder or master cylinder.

RedP85
04-09-2007, 08:21 PM
you can be very low of fluid in the system, and the clutch/fork is only
partially engaging.

(throwout bearing...would not prevent to change gears, unless is disintegrated in the housing )

Check fluid level first, as this bearing is far of reach ! - need the tranny down.

hereiam
04-09-2007, 10:36 PM
and for the newbies, clutches don't go in/out of gear, transmissions do. Clutches engage/disengage.

For those who get stuck with a nonfunctioning clutch and need to move absolutely and have a good sense of feel, you can shift without the clutch by timing your shifts. If your car is stopped and off, put it in first crank and step on the gas at the same time. The car will take off.

supkar
04-09-2007, 11:02 PM
and for the newbies, clutches don't go in/out of gear, transmissions do. Clutches engage/disengage.

For those who get stuck with a nonfunctioning clutch and need to move absolutely and have a good sense of feel, you can shift without the clutch by timing your shifts. If your car is stopped and off, put it in first crank and step on the gas at the same time. The car will take off.

I mean, really. He's right to correct you. The tranny shifts. And he's describing what's called "double-clutching". You start the car in first, pointing downhill if possible,get going, then rev the engine about as fast as the tranny's spinning, and cram it quickly into second. Same with the higher gears. A little rough on the tranny, I would think, unless you're very good at it.
Anyhow, l start with the clutch-fluid reservoir and go from there. Check for leaks on the master and slave cylinder including the lines. If it checks out O.K. , then you're probably looking at clutch replacement. Check the rear seal while you're there if you do that.

RedP85
04-09-2007, 11:34 PM
..and cram it quickly into second...that will shave gear tooths ! I would rather say, to go up in gears:
-pull it out of gear quickly, and in the same movement
-bring the shifter on the 'doorstep' of the higher gear, and
-maintain light-moderate force on the shifter to get in,
-it will by itself !! but be sure to maintain that entry force on it!

and to go down,
-pull it out of gear quickly, and leave it in neutral,
-rev the engine what would be the normal rev for the speed you're at,
-bring the shifter on the 'doorstep' of the lower gear, and
-maintain light-moderate force on the shifter to get in,
-it will by itself !! but be sure to maintain that entry force on it!

HTH.

hereiam
04-09-2007, 11:36 PM
that will shave gear tooths ! I would rather say, to go up in gears:
-pull it out of gear quickly, and in the same movement
-bring the shifter on the 'doorstep' of the higher gear, and
-maintain light-moderate force on the shifter to get in,
-it will by itself !! but be sure to maintain that entry force on it!

and to go down,
-pull it out of gear quickly, and leave it in neutral,
-rev the engine what would be the normal rev for the speed you're at,
-bring the shifter on the 'doorstep' of the lower gear, and
-maintain light-moderate force on the shifter to get in,
-it will by itself !! but be sure to maintain that entry force on it!

HTH.

Agreed. That's the way to do it. No cramming or excessive force please. Also if unsure asked someone with experience to demonstrate

Kame
04-09-2007, 11:58 PM
-i belive 2200 rpm is a special zone, well at least for 1 to 2.

-dont ever press on the gas while you try to put it out of a gear.

-if it makes a weird noise dont try push it further.

-downshifting is the best about this technique.

the only downside to the technique is red lights. unless you can still clutch in a little, you have to turn off the car and recrank it to get going again.
not only does it looks weird but i think it could prematurely wear out your starter.
should only really be used to go to/from parts dealer and back home.

**by the way has anyone figured out a way to go from neutral/stop to first ? without pushing or a slope he.


/EDIT

and for that clutch problem, it could be simply burnt. After all a car doesnt need to "clutch" to engage/disengage gears if it is stopped and not running.
how is the feel of the clutch pedal when the car runs ? that can tell a lot more about your problem.

1985SupraMan
04-10-2007, 01:51 AM
oh thanx guys...im onlie 17 years old dammit

Mone
04-10-2007, 02:06 AM
When my car had a slow slave leak and I ran out of fluid, I had the same issues. So you probably just need to bleed the slave and refill it and check the level every time you fill your gas tank (chances are that the leak is only happening when you use the clutch, so it should only be leaking when you drive it). If the leak is real bad, you might be looking at replacing some things, otherwise, just keep some DOT3 fluids around when you go out.

1985SupraMan
04-10-2007, 02:34 AM
dang...aite then....laters

wjanusz
04-10-2007, 09:32 AM
If the clutch is shot then it would be slipping or not grabbing at all. What you're describing is that it is not disengaging. So like others have said check the fluid level and bleed the clutch. See if the fork moves when someone pushes the pedal. If it is and you still have the problem then you have to pull the tranny and investigate further. At least 75% chance it's master or slave cylinder or you're out of fluid.

villerat
04-10-2007, 10:48 AM
its clutch 101 :runaway:

1985SupraMan
04-11-2007, 12:16 AM
well i bled the clutch today....still the same issues....the pedal is very soft...and kicks back slowly...my teacher said it could be the slave cylinder too....so yea...dang....probably is becuz i finished bleeding it and still had the same problems...no leaks....

CJSREDPRA
04-11-2007, 02:18 AM
the pedal is very soft...and kicks back slowly

Very big clue right there. And your teacher is right in this case!!!!!

2slow4you
04-12-2007, 01:05 AM
How many miles are on the car?

I'd put my money on the pressure plate finally gave out. Been through this twice. Replacing the clutch is a good day job for most.

walkerhiboost
04-12-2007, 09:04 AM
One of the biggest pains is getting that one starter bolt off....

villerat
04-12-2007, 10:52 AM
Very big clue right there. And your teacher is right in this case!!!!!

I am with Mr. Eng on this case, its the slave cylinder. It has happend to me many times. :rolleyes:

Hurban
04-12-2007, 07:16 PM
When I first bought my car it developed the same issue although it was my clutch master cylinder leaking fluid, I also had the same problem on a old zcar. I recomend you replace your master and slave cylinder because if one is dying the isnt far behind.